Diesel Dreamin'

I’ve watched a crazy amount of model train content on youtube over the years, and while my talent may not be up to the levels I would like, I do still want to try and present a prototypical appearance with my track. As Boomer Dioramas reminds us, “the track is a model too”.

Whilst working for Queensland Rail, we would sometimes need to not cut in to lay new rack during rain and wet periods for the sole reason that with the wet ground, we would not be able to maintain the correct superelevation for the new track being laid which could result in derailments. I knew I wanted to model this, and there is no question in my mind that layouts that feature superelevations have an added touch of realism as the trains bank into those curves.

Naturally I took to youtube to find some different methodologies and cam across fellow Aussie Jason Wood and his Youtube Channel.I found his video on superelevation super informative and the technique is simple so I set out to unashamedly copy what he had done.

First, the material. I used the exact same Evergreen strips Jason used. He had already done all the maths and the 1mm thickness of the material is very close to the correct scale height.

I cut the styrene into strips approxiamtely 20mm long. I then rean a bead of glue along the roadbed edge that required the elevation and waited for that to dry.

I then laid the track, running a bead of glue along the tops of the styrene strip and on the opposite side of the roadbed, pinng the track in place using drawing pins. I’ve found I have not even needed to weigh the track down, the pins to an excellent job of keeping the track in position and once it dries is very much set in place.

I think you can agree from the next photo, this technique works very well and after running the loco and some wagons through these curves I can say I am very happy with the end result.

It’s always a boon when you find ways to easily enhance the realism of your layout. If you’re reading this, please go ahead and give Jasons Youtube channel a sub.

I’ve neglected this blog for a little while so I’m going to attempt to play catchup by linking some youtube video updates. Then, I can start doing more detailed posting again about various work I have carried out.

With all of my benchwork now complete I’ve come to the real sticky part for me, deciding on a track plan. I’ve realised I am going to have to better identify what industries I plan to model on my layout, and how big they will be.

As lots of my rolling stock are going to be freight/contrainers, this kit jumped out at me when I was at the train store.

Not being much of a party animal, I strapped myself to the bench for NYE to make a start on it. My modelling table I use for now is not exactly super even and If I’m going to be building a structure thats square I need a better surface. I use this glass shelf from a fridge to model on and it it’s a great size to make sure everything lays down evenly.

As usual, I clipped parts from the sprues as required and cleaned up where they were joined to the sprue with a hobby knife and sanding boards. All were glued with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

Every step I used a square to keep things aligned.

It was then time to glue the roller doors in.

Once the doors were dry, it was time to start joining walls. I used a square to get good 90 degree corners and some heavy objects to keep them in situ. I really should invest in some of those speed blocks.

While the four walls were curing, I laid out and assmbled the sections for the base, then joined the two sub assemblies

Next up were the roof panels. I used Tamiya Masking Tape to keep the join along the roofs apex nice and tight while the glue set. I’ve used Tamiyas tape a lot in scale modelling and I don’t think there is a better product. It’s masking ability for painting will surely be highlighted in further posts.

I’m sure readers would agree that the great part fitment and the tape made for a very nice join.

Next were the platforms, which are assembled seperately then attached to the building. I also affixed the stairs to them.

Next I tackled the awnings. I did have to use some folded paper to help wedge them in position while gluing. Sometime a small amount of tension can be achieved this way to keep a tight and even joint while the glue cures.

All that was left were the handrails. No matter how gentle I was, removing them from the sprue did cause some deformation and in one section, a breakage. This was with manual cutting of the parts, I think next time I might employ a disk on a dremel, or cut further away from the part first and then work my way in. Nevertheless, I got them glued in place and the warpage ont he part does make it look like they’ve suffered damage from a truck or forklift, so once painted may stay but if I’m not entirely happy I will replace and use wire or styrene rod.

So what’s next?

Prior to writing this blog post, I had filmed a video on this building and a layout update for youtube.

I posted the link to the video in my local NMRA Divisions Facebook group for feedback, and I got a comment from one of the members in response to me mentioning trying to find kits that would pass for having an Australian feel.

He mentioned that what he had done was use corrugated styrene sheet for the roof and I think it’s a brilliant idea. I’ve already glue the kits roof on but I think with the sheet on top with the end boards/guttering and barge cap it still should look ok so I plan to give it a shot. He did write about this on his own blog which you can read here https://nimmitabelextension.blogspot.com/. Thanks again for the idea Darren!

Once I’ve settled on a location and established the track plan I look forward to breaking out the paint and seeign this model come alive. Until next time 😉

I began construction of the trestle bridge from Central Valley.

There’s been some progress on the benchwork, I’ve completed all sections and have bolted and levelled together. The next task will involve drilling the holes for wiring on the underside, installing the bus wire and then gluing down the XPS foam sheets. Will cover this in a separate post.

THE BRIDGE

It’s 150 feet in HO scale, so quite a decent size and will allow me to put in a decent width river scene. I need to get this model mostly completed so I can better guage the width of my proposed river. If you’ve never built a kit like this before, which I haven’t, then there’s a couple of things to keep in mind:

1. There is work required for cutting or shaping parts. This means you will require some tools beyond the simple modelling knife and glue. The instructions lay out what is required to achieve the best results. I won’t list everything here but they are pretty standard items to have in your modelling arsenal.
2. Some parts of this kit are quite delicate so extra care should be taken during cleanup. As you will see, I did myself a little bit of a mischief.
3. As a smaller company, Central Valley does not have the ability/budget to create impeccable tooling and molds much large companies can afford to do so there may be more flash and mold lines to clean up than you’ve experienced before.. (I will state for the record this is in no way a dig at Central Valley or their kits. Taking your time and following the instruction will result in a beautiful model, though I would recommend people who have NEVER built a kit before perhaps start with something smaller or more basic to get familiar with tools and modelling techniques. Youtube is your friend!)

Included with the kit is a template to correctly align pieces and establish the correct angles etc. Building over plans is not as common in the modelling world in this day and age but if you ever want to start scratch building, this kit is an excellent introduction to some of those concepts.

I clipped the cross braces from the sprues, cleaned them in pairs and aligned them on the template. It is a worthy idea to possible make a photocopy of this template and glue it to a piece of wood or glass to provide a firm and stable surface to work on.

I then glued them with my favourite styrene cement, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

As I previously hinted, tragedy struck during the clean up of these very thing parts.

I was tired and a little careless. Never rush!!! Take your time and enjoy the process.

I already knew the best fix for this was some sort of backing fish plate. This would be hidden from view on the completed model which is a small blessing, but I still wanted to create the best possible join. I had no flat styrene and there were no sections the could be pruned from the sprues of the kit. Lucky for my bridge (and bad for my diet) I had a Pringles lid that would provide the material needed.

I cut a sliver from the lid, carefully aligned the parts and glued the part in place. SUCCESS!!

Apart from the glue lifting some of the marking from my cutting mat, I’d say the join is excellent and invisible from the viewing angle.

With disaster averted, I continued creating these bracing assemblies.

Once I fix these cross brace assemblies to the main bridge structre it should be sufficiently ridgid in order for me to finalise the clean up on the parts ready for paint.

I’ve actually already constructed most of the primary base structure, but I got too excited about building and did not photograph the process, but I will make a separate post on how it went for me.

I’m actually a carpenter by trade but have been off the tools for quite some time, so it’s been nice to dust off the carpentry skills. I am using the following materials for the timber construction.

MATERIALS

– 70mm x 35mm framing timber

– 12mm Ply. (I am using a higher grade than what is really required but I prefer using better materials)

– 10G 65mm Chipboard screws to fasten the framing timber together

– 8G 35mm Chipboard screws to secure the ply to the timber framework

– 50mm M8 levelling feet for each leg

– M9 Tee nuts so the levelling feet can be screwed into the timber

– M10 bolts to bolt each section together after being leveled

TOOLS

– Circular Saw

– Speed Square

– Measuring Tape

– Cordless Drill

– Impact Driver/Screw Gun

– Carpenters Pencil

– Drill bits (3mm, 8.5mm and 10mm)

– Socket set and shifting Spanner

– 1200mm spirit level

– Clamps

– Saw Horses

Having a saw table or bench saw would have made this somewhat easier, but the speed square and power saw will totally be sufficient for the timber being worked with.

Construction

It’s a pretty simple process really. My 6 sheets of ply were 1200×1200. I ripped four of them in half to provide the 600mm sections, leaving two sheets intact to allow the track loops at each end of the dogbone. I clamped a length of the framing timber to the sheet at the correct offset from the saw blade to the foot of the saw to run the saw against. This ensures the cut runs up the centre in a neat fashion. If you are doing this use a very straight length of timber or more ideally, a straight edge such as some sturdy, boxed section of aluminum.

I assembled the framework on saw horses, screwed down the ply before flipping the benchtop upside down to install the legs and leg bracing.

The legs were cut at 1190mm, giving the layout approx 1200mm to the top of the ply. This will be getting 30mm XPS foam sheet glued to the top. I am 6 foot tall so I feel this height will be good for me.

The bottoms of the legs had an 8.5mm hole drilled and the Tee Nuts hammered into place, this then allows for the levelling feet to be screwed in.

Bracing on the legs was placed measuring down 900mm from the underside of the ply and screwed into place. Then we just put some sticky foam backing on the rear to protect the walls, move into place and level the module.

Once the next module was built, it was moved into place, leveled and clamped to the first and then two M10 bolts used to bolt the modules together.

I have one more module to construct and then the three remaining will be moved into place, leveled and bolted together.

Welcome to the Diesel Dreamin’ blog. While I am uploading videos to YouTube, I figured I might blog in parallel and be in some cases written words with pictures might be better able to explain or demonstrate some of the work I am doing on my layout. I do aspire to get my Golden Spike and then Master Model Railroader certificates from the NMRA so documenting the process for each part of the layout will help me with that. This blog will be run in tandem with my YouTube channel also name Diesel Dreamin’

So who am I?

Check out my About Me page.

The Plan!

My choice of scale is almost entirely related to my choice in subject matter. Queensland Rail. Given the space I would have been able to do so much with N scale, but there simply isn’t the availability for N scale as there is for HO scale. Which brings me to my second reason, I really love HO scale sizing. One day I will have the space to do that monster HO scale layout, but until then I can work with the space I have available and hone my modelling skills. There will be a multi-deck, helix fitted layout in my future, but not right now.

This is the the benchwork plan I have drawn up. Don’t focus on the track plan too much, it will probably get reworked a lot before I decide on it’s final form.

I am using the single car garage in my unit. As I’m an Aussie, I use the metric system but we use the basic approximation that 300mm (or 30cm) = 12 inches or 1 Imperial foot. I do have things like tools and camping equipment, children’s belongings etc that are also stored in this garage and this will be stored under the layout without impeding my access to underneath too greatly for the purposes of wiring, installing point motors etc. On occasion I may have to move things in and out but you take the rough with the smooth.